Exceptional Reptiles

Specializing in Nephrurus wheeleri cinctus, Nephrurus amyae, and Python Anchietae
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Banded Rough Knobtail
(Nephrurus wheeleri cinctus)
 
 
General Information:
This beautiful gecko is native to the desert sands of Western Australia, and is quite rare due due to how difficult it is to export it from there. 
 
You'll notice the red and black bands in the picture of this 4-month-old. The red in these bands will turn grey, and sometimes almost white. I have a female that is red and black all day, then at night when she is out of her hide box she is white and black. Another female of the same age is lighter during the day while sleeping, and then at night the pinkish bands turn deep red.  
 
 
 
This species is very hardy and adaptable, and quite prolific in captivity. I spoke with a breeder who had a female clutch seventeen times in fifteen months! No reputable breeder would subject his stock to such a task on a regular basis, it was merely for education purposes and was very early in history of their captivity here in the United States.
 
One of the goals of my breeding program is for perfect banding - full dark, unbroken bands of black. There are breeders having success breeding for aberrant patterns, and even patternless; but I personally think the perfect bands look better.
 
 
 
But, proving out a genetic trait such as "broken band" through selective breeding is fun. I do have the genetics for broken band represented in my collection, but don't pay it too much attention.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
I have put a very nice collection together of diverse animals and have really enjoyed working with them. The best way to describe their personality is "opinionated." They have a lot of spunk and will let you know if they don't like something.
 
Almost all of the breeders with which I have spoken agree that this is the best species with which to start your collection of Knobtail geckos (the Nephrurus genus). Please, feel free to contact me about the Nephrurus wheeleri cinctus gecko.
 
Click here to read a fun thread about Nephrurus on the Geckophile forums
 
 
Banded Knobtails (Nephrurus wheeleri cinctus) for sale!  
 
Banded knobtails (Nephrurus wheeleri cinctus) Unsexed hatchlings available for sale! $150 USD  
 
SOLD
Nephrurus wheeleri cinctus care sheet
 
So far I only have info for hatchlings. More to follow...
 
 

Hatchlings

 

A.    Hatchling enclosures

Very few hatchlings will die, and once they have eaten they will pretty much make it. I keep hatchlings in a shoebox rack on paper towels. Drill holes in the sides to facilitate air flow. If you notice condensation on the sides of the box, they are getting too much humidity. I put a hidebox in the warm side. I leave the newly hatched gecko in the cup, take the cup from the incubator, and put the cup in the shoebox with the lid off. The hatchling will come out when it’s ready. This way I don’t have to handle tender geckos with my hands. Keep the enclosure moist and warm. Within the first several days you should notice feces.

 

B.    Feeding hatchlings

After the first shed, feed a small cricket with the back legs broken. Dust with supplements just as you would a juvenile (I just throw them into the dusting jug with the prey for the juveniles). Remove the cricket the next morning if it hasn’t been eaten (though keep a piece of food in the enclosure for prey). They will probably not get the cricket the first time, but after a couple of times offering crickets they will start to understand the angle of pursuit and be able to get the prey. Feed 3-4 times a week, giving a light spray each time (heavier if you notice pre-shed opaque skin), taking care to remove any crickets that are not eaten.

 

I alternate prey. I primarily feed crickets, but a couple times a month will feed with dubia roaches instead. If possible, I gut-load the prey with supplements 24 hours before the feeding. The roach chow I’ve had the most success with is no longer available (a friend of mine created it, but no longer makes it) so I’ve been using Repashy. I offer the prey 30-60 minutes after sundown, and clear the uneaten prey from the enclosure about 60 minutes after sunrise.

 

If you notice a gecko hasn’t eaten a couple times, keep a log of it.

 

I’ve also kept them in the incubator until the first shed, but didn’t notice any advantage to this.

 

I’ve had hatchlings escape their enclosures and live in my basement for several weeks. I hold those back, and one of them is now my best breeder.